Since the beginning of my career in conservation, I have been fortunate to have worked on endangered species projects in some of the most incredible reserves across the country. This came with a downside.

One of the reasons any conservationist gets into the game is to be able to make a difference. But with major threats such as habitat destruction and climate change, I found myself growing disillusioned, lacking confidence in my efforts on the ground.

Don't get me wrong, I genuinely do believe in the field efforts of conservationists across the globe, working tirelessly to protect the planet's wildlife. And I have always loved fieldwork. But at the time, what I really wanted was to see what was going on at a higher level and find ways in which I could get involved.

So, I reached out to various Climate Advocacy groups and wound up working for two of them: Cape-Town-based Project 90x2030  and African Climate Reality Project (ACRP), through which I also trained as a Climate Reality Leader (CRL).

What started as a volunteer opportunity ended up as a three-year stint of contract work for ACRP. In these three years, I gained many insights, lessons, and most of all, friendships, through which I could build my own little network of comrades.

One of the great honours of my job was getting to interview other CRLs across the continent and write their stories. From this, I learned about incredible activists doing amazing work. Like Risper Asembo, at the forefront of the crisis in Kenya, and  Tamo Stephane, a champion of climate literacy in Cameroon. Learning about their work gave me a renewed sense of hope (and faith in humanity!).

From joining protests to painting murals, the experiences gained through working with the wonderful team at African Climate Reality Project were invaluable, and I will forever treasure the memories and friendships made.

I will continue fighting the good fight, as a trained Climate Reality Leader, alongside my newfound comrades.

 

For most of this year, I worked as a wildlife monitor on the Wildlife Act - Panthera Leopard Survey in the beautiful Zululand. And what an experience it was! The survey is run in association with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and Isimangaliso Wetlands Park.

Panthera and Wildlife Act

Panthera is an global NGO devoted exclusively to the conservation of the world’s wild cat species and their ecosystems. They run camera trap surveys around the world to monitor wild cat populations. In northern KwaZulu Natal, the leopard survey is conducted through Wildlife Act -a South African non-profit organisation. Wildlife ACT is primarily funded by voluntourism and provides game reserves with tracking and monitoring services free of charge.

The organisation has been on my radar for some time. I have been fortunate to have an opportunity to do real conservation alongside like-minded people who share the same high conservation values.

It has been a great honour to play a role in the conservation of this elegant and elusive species. Leopards (Panthera pardus) have lost 80% of their historic range in South Africa and their numbers continue to decline. The main threats  to leopards in Southern Africa include habitat loss, poaching for their skins and indiscriminate persecution resulting from human-wildlife conflict.

About the Leopard Survey

The aim of the Leopard Survey is to collect important information on leopards such as leopard population numbers, density, and demographic composition. Information is collected through the use of camera trap data. This enables scientific and governmental authorities to make important management decisions for the protection of the species.

Working in the Wilderness

The past six months have been hard work but at the same time lots of fun. The project runs across five different reserves in northern Kwazulu Natal. Each survey lasts 45 days after which we take down the cameras, pack up camp, and leave for a new site where we setup again from scratch.

One of the great things about the survey is travelling to the different sites, and working in some of the most breath-taking reserves in the country. It has been a major perk to visit areas restricted to the public. I have especially enjoyed accessing some of the more remote areas on foot.

It is incredibly special to be able to see iconic wildlife in a South African game reserve without the regular hoard of tour trucks and private vehicles. Out here you do not get swarmed at predator sightings like you would typically experience in other national parks.

Creatures of the Night

Another great advantage of the survey is being able to get footage of some of the most elusive nocturnal animals like aardwolf and brown hyena. This was a major highlight, as I know that it may be my closest chance to ever see some of these animals live.

Weirdly, when working on the leopard survey, actual live leopard sightings are extremely rare. We coined the phenomenon “the curse of the leopard survey.”

You do however get the most incredible images on the camera traps.

Playing a role in Leopard Conservation

Ultimately, the greatest part of the experience was being able to contribute toward the conservation of this remarkable animal. In the past, data from the leopard survey has been used to place a ban on the trophy hunting of leopards in the region. Hopefully, the survey will continue to grow across Africa forming a cohesive unit of leopard protection efforts across the continent.

I am in Sodwana Bay for the month. It is a marine protected area within the Isimangaliso Wetland Park, which, like the Cradle of Humankind, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Sodwana Bay is renowned for its pristine coral reef system with over 1500 species of fish, around 350 coral species, and a wide variety of megafauna and invertebrates. The region also boasts the largest forested coastal dunes in Africa, the largest natural freshwater lake in Southern Africa.

My role here, however, is more of a community engagement one—something I am becoming increasingly passionate about as I learn more about the value of community-led conservation.

A Sad State of Affairs

Amazing as it is to be in the beautiful, tropical paradise along the Indian Ocean, I am feeling a great deal of FOMO. Here is something I don't love admitting—I can't actually swim.

And here I am, in a diver's paradise, watching everyone around me spending their days exploring the magnificent reefs, and my heart sinks a little more each day.

I have always been mesmerised by reef animals. Every day, when my peers return from the ocean, I spend hours looking through the footage, dreaming of the day I could boast of my own encounters with sea turtles and whale sharks.

I made a silent vow to myself that I would learn how to swim. And I would return someday, and I would explore the hell out of these reefs (as conciously and sustainably as possible). But for now, there are still adventures to be had.

Exploring New Environments

It's wonderful to be in a new environment. Sodwana bay is an incredibly relaxed town with a laid back hippie vibe.

The town is small – just one street really - and although quiet now, I have heard it comes alive during the peak season. I am glad I will miss that part. I am definately enjoying the stillness and simpleness of beach life.

On this project there's a lot of downtime and I've taken advantage of that by doing some exploring.

I've made friends with some of the scuba diving interns sharing our camp and we have been spending afternoons hiking random trails from the beach into the forested area. And I have been joining volunteer groups for sundowners at the picturesque highpoint Ngobo Seleni.

Learning about Marine Life

The camp is run by an awesome couple passionate about marine conservation. I was lucky enough to tag along on one of their turtle tours.

We drove from Sodwana bay through coastal forest north toward Mozambique and hiked along the beach for about eight kilometers looking for turtles.  Leatherback and loggerhead turtles nest on these beaches from around December until March.

In the few weeks I've been here, I have already learnt so much -  sitting in on lectures wherever I can - and I must say, my mind is blown. Evolution in the marine environment is unbelievably advanced. It is really an alien world to me, and one I am very much looking forward to exploring.

I´m back in the Kruger Park after working with a student group at the Dinokeng Game Reserve. I will be guiding a group of volunteers over the next few weeks and I am excited to spend time at my favourite camp – the rustic Rusermi River Lodge in Balule Game Reserve. This trip has already been awesome so far, with the highlight being a long anticipated sighting of African wild dogs.

Bad Timing

The dogs had been in the area the first time I worked at the Rusermi camp in January last year yet I kept missing them. Each time the group encountered them I always seemed to be somewhere else. Needless to say I was quite bummed. I was really sad to leave without seeing them when my last contract was up. And by the time I returned to the site in October they had moved off to areas inaccessible to us.

A Stroke of Luck

Finally, whilst on a game transect, we heard some lions calling. We decided to see if we could find them but the veld was too dense. As we turned a few roads up, one of the volunteers shouted “hyena!” I turned the bakkie around so we could all get a good look. Just then, several large pairs of rounded ears caught my eye along with the very distinct mottled fur. Those were no hyenas. It was one of several African wild dog packs roaming the area. They seemed to be checking out a potential den site when a small breeding herd of elephants came passing through. I was so excited to see the dogs, it didn’t really occur to me that some of my volunteers had never seen elephants before. It was interesting to watch the ellies become annoyed with them as they played and patrolled before moving off.

We decided to follow them, maintaining a respectful distance behind the pack. They led us to an  impala kill.

It looked like they had killed it earlier that day and left it unguarded for some reason. Perhaps they were distracted by something, causing them to leave the kill site. We watched for some time as they feasted.

They were completely comfortable with our presence – even playing right next to the bakkie. It was truly a magical moment.

I went on to explain my excitement to the group and why this was so special. African wild dogs are seriously endangered, especially in South Africa where less than 500 individuals remain.

Threats to Painted Dogs

The main threats to the species result from habitat fragmentation which drives them closer to human habitations where they contract diseases like rabies and canine distemper from domestic dogs. They are also extremely susceptible to snaring and are often killed by livestock farmers and property owners.

We watched for a while as they feasted. Also known as painted dogs, or painted wolves, these incredible carnivores are highly intelligent. Their social structure and behaviour is fascinating.

Each pack has an alpha male and female. These are the breeders of the pack with the beta pair next in line.

Similar to wolves, wild dogs to rarely reject old, sick or weak members of the pack, but rather include them and care for them in a similar way they do for their young.

They are extremely skilled hunters, strategizing and communicating vocally through high pitched squeals, chirps, yelps, and hoots,  as they run their prey down. Wild dogs kill by disembowelment which is argued to be a kinder method than that employed by the big cats.

The last time I encountered wild dogs was a few years ago, also in the Kruger. Seeing them again made me feel rather emotional. They are incredibly special animals and are in desperate need of protection.

With less than 7000 dogs across the continent, painted dogs are Africa’s second most endangered carnivore after the Ethiopian wolf.

Efforts to Protect Wild Dogs

As part of the project we monitor predator guilds using camera traps and collecting data from predator surveys. Other predators surveyed include lions, leopards, cheetahs, and hyenas.

Several organizations such as the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), Wildlife ACT, and Painted Dog Conservation are working together doing intensive monitoring, habitat management, rehabilitation, snare-hunts, and community development initiatives to alleviate pressures on wild dog populations.

I hope that one day they will be as revered as our lions are, that everyone would be as excited as I was to see them, and that their species survives long enough for either to be possible.

* Images by Quintin Otto and Lucy Salut

Since the beginning of the year, I've been working with volunteer groups, spreading my time between the Balule Nature Reserve located within the Kruger National Park and the Dinokeng Game Reserve, just north of the Gauteng province. Two protected areas, each with its own unique ecological dynamic, separated by nearly 500 kilometers, yet both with one major similarity.

Both reserves employ the advanced approach to South African conservation of dropping fences between both national and private nature reserves, merging protected areas, thereby greatly increasing the roaming ranges of South African wildlife.

The Voluntourism Conservation Model

The voluntourism model has drawn a bunch of criticism in recent years (with good reason), but when legit,  its a great way to bring in much-needed funding for conservation projects.

It also brings people together from all over the world to experience the African environment, learn about South African wildlife, and provide conservation managers with valuable data for decision-making and ecological management planning.

The Job

The work involves wildlife monitoring and research. Data is collected from bird point counts, game transects, and predator surveys. The data is used to monitor animal distribution, population growth rates, habitat use, changes in the ecosystem, and overall habitat condition. Other than data collection, we also get our hands dirty with some ad-hoc reserve work. This could be anything from road maintenance or alien plant removal.

Working in the African bush is incredibly rewarding. Volunteers learn about nature and the animals we work to protect whilst gaining some valuable bush skills and experience. And while it involves hard work in the hot African sun, we also enjoy incredible views, amazing sunsets, downtime with new friends, and daily encounters with majestic African wildlife, big and small.

 

 

Can a girl catch a break? Yes. Yes, she can. Graduation was really a light at the end of a long, dark tunnel. And the cherry on top was landing this job just at the very end of my wits. I can't believe I found it on Gumtree!

Still, this turned out to be another rough year. The job I landed was reserve coordinator and "assistant to the reserve manager" at the Cradle Nature Reserve, which is in the Cradle of Humankind—a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It started off great. Better than great. It really seemed like a dream job. I got on really well with the reserve manager, Brandon, and we made quite the team. Plus there were some super fun times exploring the reserve.

But a month in, and Brandon had to leave over a dispute with the neighbouring property manager." Well, guess who wound up in the manager seat? Yip. Moi. I think that is when I started to realise my capabilities, because I actually rocked that position (for the most part).

I started to get pretty lonely though, working in that office, all by my onesies. I did, however, befriend some of the hotel staff, the maintenance guy, and the interior designer. And also the security manager and his lovely little family.

But then in November, tragedy struck, and Jan, the security manager, died suddenly. It was really a big blow, as I lost a friend and an important support person. To make matters worse, since I did such a stellar job filling Brandon's shoes as manager, the owner decided I could more than handle the role of security manager. Spoiler alert. I could not.

It was a cutthroat job I had no training for, and I was in well over my head. I also found out my second-in-charge was a poacher, and I started to realise the nuances of the bushmeat crisis. Long story short, I ended up on anti-anxiety meds. Most of all, for the most part, I wasn't doing real conservation.

Other than (poorly) managing the anti-poaching unit, I was mostly doing hospitality work - a conservationist's nightmare. But this story does have a happy ending. By the end of the year, a friend I had hired to do game drives got me a gig as a wildlife monitor at his new job. It was the kind of gig you don't interview for. You just show up, get thrown in the deep end, and learn to swim.

It was my first time getting real work in the bush, and I was scared as hell, but super excited for the adventure that lay ahead. More importantly, I was going to do real conservation again.

After what seemed like eons, I finally graduated with a Diploma in Nature Conservation, majoring in animal studies, plant studies, conservation ecology, and resource management. It has certainly been a long journey with the University of South Africa (UNISA). In between juggling a full-time job and studying part-time, there were definitely moments when giving up seemed like a good idea. I eventually made the decision to quit my job and complete my studies.

Graduation Yippee

The year was especially tough as UNISA requires you to complete a year of field work spanning over seven categories, plus compiling a detailed portfolio, followed by a nerve-wracking interview by a panel of moderators in order to qualify.

And this is over and above the three years' worth of coursework, including practical excursions.

But in the end, I am really glad I pushed through.

And although, I am still bummed at myself for being too lazy to request a re-mark as I was only 1% short of graduating cum laude (eeps!), attending the graduation ceremony with my sisters was definitely a proud moment.

It was a lot of hard work but now that I am reflecting on my practical year, there were a great many experiences and some good exposure into the field.  My initial intention was to volunteer my way through the year but I was lucky to get an internship with the Joburg City Parks and Zoo thanks to my awesome mentor.

Interning with Joburg City Parks & Zoo

 

Through Joburg City Parks & Zoo I was able to spread my year over different places, getting a broad range of experience. I started off at the Kloofendal Nature Reserve where I did a water assessment, soil erosion project, and vegetation survey among other things. I also spent two months at  the Joburg Zoo where I worked at the primates and bird sections.

As a conservationist, Zoo’s are not my favourite places as I believe that all wildlife should be free, but the Joburg Zoo did have some good conservation programs such as the Ground Hornbill project and the Wattled Crane Recovery programme (WCRP) which turned out to be the highlight of my year.

Working with Wattled Cranes

Wattled Cranes (Bugeranus carunculatus) are the most endangered crane species on the African continent.

Over the last decade they've had a 38% decline in wild populations. And with only 250 individuals remaining in South Africa, they are facing a high risk of extinction in the wild.

The program is run in partnership with the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, and the African Association of Zoos and Aquaria, and is aimed at preventing the local extinction of the Wattled Crane in South Africa through the release of captive-reared individuals into critically endangered wild populations across the country.

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I was based at a facility in the Free State province which was focused on pairing adult birds for breeding. My experience with the birds was awesome. Wattled Cranes are truly majestic birds – tall and graceful, and each with their own unique personality. Pairing them was no easy feat though. As graceful as they are, they are large birds and can be rather ferocious. In fact, I myself nearly had my ass handed to me on several occasions.

But on the other hand, they are extremely endearing and once they become used to your presence you can expect heaps of bashful affection.

Cranes are renowned for their elaborate courtship dancing and synchronised calls. One of the keys ways to tell that a couple have pair-bonded is by observing them calling in unison.

Their feisty temperaments also mean that that we had to be extremely careful when pairing them as if we paired the wrong couple, it could lead to a fatality. And being responsible for the death of an endangered species was not on my career goals list. But once paired, they typically mate for life.

Large chunks of my day were spent monitoring them, observing their behaviour and collecting data. To many this seemed tedious but the way I saw it, I got to spend my days in the sun bird-watching – so I had no complaints. And when one of the couples finally hatched a chick, I was ecstatic.  Up until then, the program didn’t have much success with cranes raising their own chicks in captivity.

But instead of separating the chick from its parents for hand-rearing, they decided to give them a chance and to everyone’s surprise, they did a great job.

Both parents were hands on and very protective.  And had a little help from us to provide medical care and good nutrition for the chick to grow healthy and strong.

Its a Wrap

By the end of my internship year I was lucky to find work as an assistant manager at the Cradle Nature Reserve, located within the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. I was sad to leave the birds but happy that the program saw some success over the last year including one new pairing of a couple I had been working with before I left. It has always been a dream of mine to work with endangered species, so being able to work with these amazing birds in my internship year was a big beautiful feather in my cap.